Doug Cooper | 26th June 2024
I often wonder what is the essence of a good multi day paddling trip; why do I always look forward to them so much and why are they such a uniquely different experience to any other form of paddling I do. The answer is perhaps made up of many different things, often different for different people; that said there is one thing that stands out more than anything else for me – the sense of unknown and associated ‘uncertainty’. The weeks before the trip not knowing what the weather will allow to be possible, when you start off on the trip not knowing where or when it may finish, and when you leave one camp not knowing what or where the next camp will be. Every day is different and every day will have a sense of uncertainty; with the potential of surprise around every corner, most often wonderous, but some maybe challenging. In all of the above it is so often the weather that plays the biggest contributing factor, with this realised and understood then making the most of any trip is often about relaxing into it, getting in tune with the weather and environment; and with this being comfortable to just ‘go with the wind and the waves.’
Enjoying going with the wind & waves
And so, myself and great friend Pete Astles found ourselves packing our sea kayaks with nine days of kit at Broadford, the Isle of Skye. It was our annual ‘proper bloody brilliant adventure’; a chance to get away from it all, remind ourselves what is great about paddling and immerse ourselves in all that Scottish sea kayaking offers. It was hard to believe it was only a year ago since we were last packing our boats together; but as always, we were as excited as kids at Christmas to get going. With the un-summer like weather, it had been tricky to know where best to head and right up to the day before I was ‘uncertain’; but with strong southerly winds forecast for most of the coming days starting at Broadford and heading north seemed to give plenty of great options – and ensured we were ‘going with the waves.’
A sunny first campsite
Unfortunately for the next three hours it was nothing like going with the waves, a force five northerly headwind needed to be overcome to arrive at first camp – but all was due to change after this. The hard work was more than worth it, in fact it most probably made the campsite all the sweeter; although a bit chilly, a sunny evening with great views ensued and we savoured every minute of it. We woke in the morning to not a breath of wind and fine weather, and for anywhere other than Scotland this would sound idyllic; however, introduce the Scottish Midge into the equation and it led to a frantic midge net wearing breakfast and pack to get on the water. All of this with those comedy teeth cleaning, porridge eating, coffee drinking moments when you forget you’re wearing the midge net!
A tranquil start
Once on the water we headed up the remotely beautiful west coast of Raasay, enjoying waterfalls, cliffs, seals and sea eagles as we went. As forecast, the calm morning soon gave way to a strengthening southerly wind and by the time we reached Raasay’s northerly point we were surfing along with building force six wind and waves on our backs. Choosing to get off the water we found a great campsite and enjoyed exploring on foot as the wind increased, just managing to get our food cooked before the rain came in and we hid in our tents for the night. Waking to a calm morning again, we were a bit more prepared for what we were about to face as we stepped out the tent. I’m pleased to say far less toothpaste, porridge and coffee was left on our midge nets second morning out! The wind was forecast to increase again during the day, so we headed off promptly to enjoy circumnavigating the rugged and remote island of Rona.
Enjoying Ramsay’s west coast
I’ve always found Rona a particularly special place to paddle; with an abundance of seals, intricate coastline with numerous skerries and of course a fantastic lighthouse overlooking it all. All the time with a stunning vista looking back across to Skye or out to the mainland’s magnificent Northwest Highlands. The conditions were kind for us, and we definitely managed to enjoy circumnavigating Rona in all its glory; finding a rocky inlet for a break and check the weather forecasts to decide what next back on the north coast of Raasay. We had been uncertain what the afternoon would bring; would we be stuck on Raasay in an increasing wind, or would we be able to make it back across to Skye; again, we were happy to embrace the uncertainty, listen to the weather and go with the wind and waves.
Rona’s lighthouse
We seemed to have an unexpected brief weather window, and this allowed us to make the eight-kilometre crossing back to Skye. Until about a kilometre from Skye there was next to no wind and we enjoy taking photos alongside taking in the incredible surrounding views; with only a lone porpoise for company. As we neared Bearreraig Bay on Skye a force four built rapidly and by the time we landed it was already reaching force five and showing no signs of decreasing; time to listen to the wind and waves and set up camp. Sheltering behind the tents we cooked tea and took in the view; having time to have a beer whilst reflecting on a stunning days paddle before the rain set in for the night.
Sunshine and shelter from the wind at Inver Tote
The morning provided us with a solid force five wind, but at the same time treated us with sunshine as well. Just before leaving the camp, we filled up our water bottles from the stream to keep hydrated on what was going to be a fun packed day. Then it was time to go with the wind and waves for a downwinder; surfing waves and eating up the kilometres with big smiles on our faces. This less visited east coast of Skye is certainly not to be overlooked; we enjoyed the cliffs, caves, stacks and stunning Kilt Rock waterfall as we sped along. All with time to enjoy a sheltered sunny break at Inver Tote on route. When we reached Staffin the wind was increasing noticeably and rain was not far away, so we decided to set up camp for the day; this turned out to be a very wise decision! Through the night I discovered the water we had collected in the morning had not been a ‘pure’ as I had anticipated and other than emergency exits from the tent to discharge fluids from one of two ends, I was ‘man down’. This led to Pete ‘evacuating’ me from Skye the next day having fetched the car, and in turn he himself suffering a similar ‘fluid discharge’ experience when getting back to my house; our trip was very ‘unexpectedly’ over – men down!
Cliffs & stacks on Skye’s eastern coastline
Despite the premature ending, the paddling trip had given us everything we could have asked of it. In addition, the trip had confirmed my thoughts that the beauty of paddling trips is the unexpected, and to work with this it is about listening to, embracing and going with the wind, waves and all the ‘unexpected’ that comes your way. With this approach we certainly had a ‘proper bloody brilliant adventure’ and next year’s dates are already in the diary.
Inspired and supported by Peak PS
